Walking through the Georgian capital of Tbilisi in 2023, one is struck by the many European, Ukrainian and Georgian flags, all conveying a clear message. The war in Ukraine is condemned as terrorism, for which Putin is responsible. The desire for Georgia to join the EU is also expressed.

Many refugees from Russia, who make the scarce housing in Tbilisi even more expensive, can well understand this. But the messages don’t miss their mark on Russian tourists either, for whom good food and a relaxed lifestyle are traditionally associated with Georgia. Even exchange offices show “Glory to Ukraine” on their display instead of the ruble rate.

Political statements on house walls are striking. Simple statements have the greatest persuasive power. In their entirety, however, they convey an unfiltered mood. Monuments from the Soviet era, whose massive authoritarianism no longer meets with approval in a post-heroic society, are quite different. One example is the brutally monumental Chronicle of Georgia, for which one has to drive to the outskirts of the city.



Wall up the despots
A subtle interpretation of the Georgian DreamThe

In Georgia, people feel at the mercy of the march of time and the whims of politicians. While the parliamentary majority and the government of Georgia do not want to mess with the neighboring Russian Federation for pragmatic reasons, the population today supports its president, who sees Georgia better off in the Western alliance.
More stories from Georgia
In Georgia, we entrusted ourselves to Giorgi Chachua, who infected us with his enthusiasm for his home country on the trekking tour with packhorses through Tusheti. He is a qualified tour guide and co-owner of the Georgian travel agency Enjoy Georgia. Contrary to what the name suggests, many customers from German-speaking countries book here. The staff are flexible and communication is uncomplicated. As we didn’t have to organise our own luggage transport, catering and itinerary, we were able to fully immerse ourselves in the interesting information provided by the hiking guide. Bonus point: our Georgian guide had studied history. Georgia’s eventful history, the political street art or the parliaments under the open sky are just as much highlights of a trip to Georgia as the architecture of the sky bridges and the fantastic Dezerter food market in the capital Tbilisi. One of the most curious monuments can be found just outside the capital. The Chronicle of Georgia is visible from afar in its brute gigantomania.