Due to its location between Europe and Asia, Georgia has experienced many changes in its history, which we want to trace on a trek along the border with the Russian Federation. The starting point of our 8-day trekking tour is 190 kilometers from Tbilisiinternationally, the Georgian
![Der Abano-Pass in der Bergregion Tuschetien ist der höchste befahrbare Pass Georgiens. Die Schotterstraße nach Omalo, zählt zu den gefährlichsten Routen der Welt / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11367-georgia-2rpf47r-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
Our journey leads us through the oldest wine growing region
![Der Dom im orthodoxen Alawerdi-Kloster ist die drittgrößte Kirche Georgiens. / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11233-georgia-2rpf3fr-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
After eight hours of driving, we reach Omalo at an altitude of 1,880 meters. This small village is the administrative center of Tusheti. Before the upcoming hiking stages with overnight stays in tents, we will stay once again in a simple hotel. During a stopover in Telavi, the capital of the Georgian province of Kakheti, we bought food for the ten stages of the trek.
![In Telawi, der Hauptstadt der georgischen Provinz Kachetien, decken wir uns auf einem Bauernmarkt mit frischen Lebensmitteln ein / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11130-georgia-2rpm91e-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
We have left the heat of Tbilisi behind in the mountains, but throughout the former Soviet republic of Georgia, the effects of Russia’s war of aggression against Ukraine are unmistakable. I strike up a conversation with Anna and Vitali, who are also planning to set out on a hike the next day. The Russian couple has lived in Georgia for almost two years. With a sentimental look to the East, they wonder when the political conditions will allow them to return to their homeland.
![Hinter dem Hotel Tusheti bei Omalo blickt ein Paar auf die Bergkette, hinter der sich ihre russische Heimat befindet / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11421-georgia-2rpf4kt-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
More outdoor is not possible
Our hike begins in one of the last villages in Tusheti that is inhabited year-round. Only in the three summer months from July to September the semi-nomadic Tuschen live here. During the rest of the year, the families live in the lower-lying Alvani Valley, which was given to them in the 16th century by King Theimuraz of Kakheti in gratitude for their support in the fight against the Persian invaders.
![Omalo ist das tuschetische Verwaltungszentrum. Oberhalb der Ortschaft die restaurierten Ruinen des Wehrdorfes Keselo / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11453-georgia-2rpf4xx-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
With light luggage we enjoy the nature and suspect that the route ahead of us was the scene of hostile conflicts for centuries. Almost 120 kilometers lie ahead of us, during which we have to overcome more than 5,000 meters of altitude. We are moving along the southern side of the mountain ridge that separates Georgia from Chechnya, often only a few hundred meters from the border.
![Im tuschetischen Bergdorf Tsokalta ist im Winter nur ein Haus bewohnt / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11408-georgia-2rpf4de-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Hinter dem tuschetischen Wehrdorf Dartlo erkennt man wenige Kilometer vor der tchetschenischen Grenze die Burg Kvavlo / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11566-georgia-2rp7249-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
Border experiences
The border with Chechnya runs over rugged mountain ridges and has not been further secured on the Georgian side to this day. For the corridor, which is particularly close to the border, all persons need a letter of permission, which is issued at the border police posts and checked on the way. Tourists must have their passports with them for this purpose.
![Das georgische Grenzgebiet entlang der Grenze nach Tschetschenien darf man nur mit einem Erlaubnisschreiben betreten, das man an den Kontrollpunkten erhält / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11820-georgia-2rmwfja-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
Since time immemorial, the borders between Tusheti, Chechnya and Dagestan have been a challenge. The Tusks were threatened primarily by human abduction. The row of old fortified towers, which stand within sight of each other and used to be constantly manned, cannot be overlooked. This meant that news of enemy attacks could be passed on quickly and the remote settlements could at least be defended together. As a deterrent, defeated enemies were buried in highly visible graves along the border. Since the Tusks believed in reincarnation, the right arms of killed enemies were chopped off as a precaution, and these decorated many Tusk house walls as trophies.
![Wehrtürme wie hier am Nakaicho Pass markieren seit alters her die nördliche Grenze Georgiens / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11750-georgia-2rmybhr-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
The culture of the Tusk people is characterized by pre-Christian traditions
In the remote region of Georgia, the ethnic group of the Tushes is still entrenched in a faith in which pagan ideas play a major role alongside Christian rituals. For example, most Tusks are firmly convinced that all products that come from pigs bring bad luck in the mountains. Even a hitchhiker with leather shoes or a salami in his backpack can cause a car accident. However, in the Georgian lowlands, where the Tusks spend most of the year, they themselves regularly consume pork
![Zwei Tuschen an einem Chati. Solch traditionelle Heiligtümer sind sehr häufig in Tuschetien / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11663-georgia-2rmyb5c-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Die Dartlo-Kirche am Rande der Stadt Dartlo, in der Gemeinde Akhmeta. Für die Dorfbevölkerung ist der Bereich sowohl wegen der Kirche als auch wegen eines Schreins heilig / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11637-georgia-2rmyayy-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![In Georgien haben die Kinder drei Monate Sommerferien. Diese Zeit verbringen die Familien der Tuschen meist in den Gebirgsdörfern Tuschetiens / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11674-georgia-2rmyb5m-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
The Caucasian chalk circle
Near Dartlo, where horses were grazing a moment ago, our guide Giorgi shows us a stone circle that inevitably reminds me of Bertholt Brecht’s drama of the Caucasian Chalk Circle. Here in Dartlo, the twelve village elders gathered when necessary to judge crimes such as murder, theft, or treason. In the center of the circle, the accuser and the accused knelt on two stones. Under another stone, both had to take off their shaved mustaches as a sign of the oath. A man’s mustache symbolizes his conscience. The highest punishment was banishment from the village community.
![Steinkreis, in dem früher Gericht gehalten wurde. Dieser so genannte Sabcheo ist ein traditioneller Gerichtsplatz in Tuschetien aus dem 16. und 17. Jahrhundert, an dem sich die Dorfältesten trafen und berieten. Einer der am besten erhaltenen Gerichtsplätze befindet sich in Dartlo / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11628-georgia-2rmyb09-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
Dogs, sheep, wolves
Tusheti is known for its high-quality sheep products (milk, cheese, wool). The flocks of sheep are tended by shepherds, led by goats and guarded by dogs. Even before you see a flock of sheep, you can hear the barking of sheepdogs. For hikers then increased caution is required, because the dogs take their task very seriously. Running away at this moment is not necessary and rather clumsy. If the flock of sheep is still in front of you, it is better to wait and have a picnic. Because a flock of sheep is always on the move and sooner or later will clear the way.
![Die Begegnung mit Hunden ist für Wanderer in Georgien oft mit erhöhtem Puls verbunden, denn die kaukasischen Hirtenhunde verteidigen ihre Herde äußerst aggressiv auch gegen Wölfe / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/bc_0175-georgia-2rmybbg-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![In Tuschetien werden Schafherden von Ziegen geführt und von Hunden bewacht. Auch auf der anderen Seite eines Flusses können Wölfe eine Gefahr darstellen / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11746-georgia-2rmybhx-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Nur die Hirten können ihre Hunde wieder beruhigen. Dieser Schäfer krault einen Hund, den er in kalten Nächten als Kopfkissen verwendet / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11555-georgia-2rjabcm-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
Pack horses and bridges in rough terrain
The higher and steeper a mountain range is, the narrower the trails become. Heavy loads can only be transported over trails with sure-footed animals such as horses, mules and donkeys. Tents, personal luggage, provisions and kitchen utensils for our hiking group of four were transported by six pack horses on the stages over 2,000 meters in altitude. They were loaded and led by experienced packhorses. This is the name given to people who transport loads over mountains on the backs of packhorses.
![Bei der Überquerung von Flüssen ist Trittsicherheit gefragt. Für Wanderer mit Tagesrucksack ... / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_11890-georgia-2rmt4de-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![... aber auch der Packpferde, die das Gepäck durch den Fluss transportieren / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/bc_0279-georgia-2rmp11w-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Erfahrene Säumer beherrschen das Beladen von Packpferden / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12026-georgia-2rmp13k-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Etwa viermal im Jahr werden die Packpferde unterwegs mit neuen Hufeisen beschlagen / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12076_2x23_1280-eyeturner-georg-berg-verbessert-rr-georgia-2rjabg6-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Je nach Zustand des Wanderweges und Tiefe des Wassers im Fluss, entscheidet der Wanderführer, an welcher Stelle der kalte Fluss durchquert wird / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12160-georgia-2rmp1b8-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Manch eine Brücke macht nicht den zuverlässigsten Eindruck, lässt dem Wanderer aber keine Wahl / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12635-georgia-2rkgpfy-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Brücke, die man nicht braucht. Sie führt über ein Fussbett. An der Vegetation erkennt man aber, dass der Fluss im Sommer noch nie Wasser geführt hat / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12850-georgia-2rk7nk6-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
So close to the sky
The next highlights of the hike have to do with steep climbs. The first one leads us over the Atsunta Pass, which connects the Georgian provinces of Tusheti and Kevsuretia. On the sweaty serpentine path over scree fields we meet some mountain bikers. Around noon we can enjoy the view in the cold at an altitude of 3,403 meters.
![Blick vom 3.496 Meter hohen Atsunta-Pass in die georgische Provinz Tuschetien / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12340_2x23_1280-eyeturner-georg-berg-pano-georgia-2rjabnp-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Die Vegtation auf dem Atsunta-Pass in Georgien erblüht 3.400 Meter über dem Meeresspiegel nur wenige Wochen im Jahr. Meistens liegt hier Schnee / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12490-georgia-2rjac0k-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Auf der Khevsureti-Seite unterhalb des Atsunta-Pass in Georgien. Im Sonnenuntergang sieht man weit hinter der Gebirgskette den Berg Kasbek / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/bc_0453-georgia-2rmn31f-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Während der klaren Nacht in 3.000 Meter Höhe kann man am Himmel die Milchstraße und viele Sternschnuppen beobachten / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12537_2x23_1280-eyeturner-georg-berg-verbessert-rr-georgia-2rjac2x-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Frühstück in 3.000 Meter Höhe über dem Meeresspiegel auf der Khevsureti-Seite unterhalb des Atsunta-Passes / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12566-georgia-2rjac2k-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Die Stadt Schatili liegt in einer strategisch wichtigen Lage in der historischen georgischen Provinz Chewsuretien. Sie ist oft belagert aber nie besiegt worden. Im Jahr 2023 wehen die georgische und die Europafahne an einem Mast / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12770-georgia-2rk7mxg-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Georgische Dolomiten wird das Gebirgsmassiv auch genannt, das man bei gutem Wetter vom Tschauchi-Pass aus sehen kann / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12941-georgia-2rk6fjc-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
![Giorgi Chachua von Enjoy-Georgia zeigt als Wanderführer wo der Atsunta-Pass die georgischen Provinzen Tuschetien und Khevsureti verbindet / © Foto: Georg Berg](https://tellerrandstories.de/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa_12363-georgia-2rjabp6-eyeturner-georg-berg.jpg)
For two weeks we entrusted ourselves to Giorgi, who infected us with enthusiasm for his home country from the first minute. He is a trained tour guide and co-owner of the Georgian travel agency Enjoy Georgia. Contrary to what the name suggests, many customers from German-speaking countries book here. The staff is flexible and communication is uncomplicated. Since we did not have to take care of luggage transport, catering and itinerary ourselves, we could fully engage in the interesting information of the hiking guide.