If an entire region bears the name of the river that runs through it, that speaks volumes about its importance. In the Charente and Charente-Maritime, castles, wine cellars, fortresses, bridges, triumphal arches and a royal rope-making workshop tell of the role that the Charente once played as a waterway. Whether Roman buildings, fortifications from Napoleon’s time, the art of cognac production or the creations of international stonemasons – there is much to discover along the Charente. The air becomes saltier and the light brighter with every kilometer you cycle – until you reach the offshore islands of the Atlantic coast. But first things first: This cycle tour begins seven days earlier in the capital of Charente – in Angoulême.
A bicycle called Blue Rain
A lot remains uncertain at the beginning of a group bike tour. Who is going? How big is the group? How good is the tour guide? And what will the weather be like? But above all, I asked myself: is a group tour the right format for me? I didn’t think about the name of my e-bike. But during the week with the organizer Die Landpartie, I learned that even the small sign with the inscription Blauregen on the rear mudguard of my bike contributes to a successful tour – just like the rider with the red final flag, the cup for the picnic or the briefings before the next stage.
The luxury of light luggage
With the arrival at an idyllically situated hotel near Angoulême, around 250 kilometers from the Ile de Ré, traveling light begins. From now on, the team van transports the suitcases. At the first meeting, all 13 travelers receive luggage bags. Reinhold, our driver and catering professional, distributes the bikes, organizes test rides, adjusts saddles and serves drinks. Each bike has a name – a practical idea. During the many short stops along the way, everyone quickly finds their bike for the onward journey.
No matter how hard we pedal or use the turbo gear, our suitcases always reach the next hotel before us, often already brought to our room. Checking in goes smoothly: as soon as we arrive, everyone is in their rooms and in the shower. In Cognac, after a rainy stage, Reinhold had even hosed down our bikes faster than we could freshen up.
It’s all these little comforts that free your mind for the landscape and the sights along the way – true luxury!
Culture: from churches to comics
Angoulême is known throughout Europe as the city of comics. The renowned comic festival has been attracting visitors every year since 1974, and new comic murals are added every year. On a guided tour of the city, we visit the Romanesque Saint-Pierre church from the 12th century and other Murs Peints: Sometimes they cover entire house facades, sometimes they discreetly decorate a third-floor window.
The day’s stages are a good mix of culture and cycling. The Charente river shows us the way. We often follow the La Flow Vélo cycle path, past vineyards whose grapes are used to make the famous cognac. We taste Cognac and Pineau and learn that the French have mastered spirit tourism to perfection. Forests, picturesque villages with magnificent manor houses, castles, land art projects and long stretches along the banks of the Charente make the tour varied and attractive.
The laid table or picnic de luxe
A picnic in the countryside is something special. It’s even nicer when, after hours on the bike, a richly laid table is suddenly waiting at the side of the road – full of regional specialties. Reinhold, our driver with a keen sense for delicacies, takes care of our lunch several times during this week of cycling. We have set up a picnic fund for this purpose. With this budget, Reinhold has provided everything our hearts desire: from French country bread to white wine from the Île de Ré.
At lunchtime, at the agreed picnic spot, he shows us the cheeses, pâtés, rillettes and various tomatoes before opening the buffet for the hungry group. Picnics like this are an integral part of a Landpartie trip – if the participants want it. And who could say no to that!
Ahead with good humor
The journey takes you from the green center of France to the Atlantic coast: from Angoulême via Cognac, the city of elegant brandy, to Saintes, where the Romans left their mark. We continue on to Rochefort, home of Pierre Loti, the royal rope factory, the only intact floating ferry in France and once a strategically important naval arsenal under Napoleon. At Fouras, we cross over to the island of Aix, where Napoleon spent his last days before being exiled. The tour then continues maritime: via La Rochelle to the Île de Ré and back again.
Our tour guide Katell Nicoux led us safely along these 250 kilometers with good humour, clear announcements, tips for the right gear on steep passages and in her bright yellow vest. Another little luxury of the group tour: No one has to study the map or question the route. A great thing for anyone who doesn’t have the scouting gene.
Katell fills our breaks with all kinds of information – we learned about the Charentaises, iconic slippers in a checkered pattern or the rilette made from the meat of the Nutrias – which multiply so magnificently in the Charente that the French make them into a spread to curb the plague. Fortunately, we did not try this specialty.
The day trip to the island of Aix on day 5 of the tour will be a perfect summer day by the sea. Aix is located around 20 kilometers southwest of La Rochelle, close to the larger islands of Île de Ré and Île d’Oléron. A ferry takes us from Fouras to the car-free island. Green meadows run through the extensive fortifications. Once an important fortress, Aix is now a popular excursion destination. On this day, we swap Reinhold’s picnic spot for seafood at Franck’s beach restaurant. After a dozen oysters, we sing karaoke to 99 Balloons by Nena – the atmosphere couldn’t be better.
From the group to the team
Despite careful planning, surprises do happen: Construction work blocks roads, or fallen trees block the cycle path. Together, the group quickly solves such obstacles.
True again: The journey is the reward
From group to team
People with similar activity levels and cultural interests usually get along well in a group. Everyone sets their own pace: those who want a challenge switch off the battery, those who want to keep up switch on the turbo. You rarely ride wheel to wheel, there is room for your own rhythm. I enjoyed travelling in a cycling group. The wealth of culture and regional specialities was impressive. I could never have gathered as much knowledge through extensive travel preparation as our tour guide Katell imparted with her good humour – often supplemented by guided tours, for example at the Baron de Otard cognac house or in the comic book city of Angoulême. Seven days through the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, which felt much longer due to the multitude of impressions.
Collective photo stop on a cycle path on the Ile de Ré: None of us carelessly drove past these monastery ruins with poppies / © Photo: Georg Berg
Highlights along the Charente
The Charente winds its way through the French region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine for 380 kilometers. Its course leads from the mountainous headwaters over rolling hills and vineyards to the maritime floodplains at the estuary. From Angoulême, the river is navigable all the way to the Atlantic at Rochefort. It was once the main transport route for cognac production. Today, cognac houses and winegrowers invite you to spirit tourism, while cycle paths such as the Flow Vélo take you past picturesque villages, old stone bridges, a rare transporter bridge, watermills, castles and the old town of Angoulême. The Charente is still considered an insider tip, as it is one of the most pristine river landscapes in France: hardly any mass tourism, but plenty of nature, tranquillity and enjoyment. The small island of Aix was once a bulwark to protect the Charente estuary from enemy fleets and is now popular for a day trip to the sea.
The research trip was supported by Nouvelle-Aquitaine Tourism and cycle tour operator The Landpartie
