The historic city of Cuenca in Castile-La Mancha is perched on a limestone cliff between the rivers Júcar and Huécar. UNESCO has listed the old town (Ciudad Vieja) as a World Heritage Site since 1996, recognizing the harmonious combination of architecture and nature.
The medieval old town with its famous Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses) attracts visitors all year round. But during Semana Santa, the Holy Week before Easter, Cuenca unfolds an incomparable atmosphere. The customs of this week are deeply rooted in Spanish culture. People of all ages and backgrounds take part – whether as spectators or active participants, regardless of their everyday religiosity.
Hermandades: Guardians of tradition
The hermandades (brotherhoods) characterize the Semana Santa. They organize the eleven processions that pass through Cuenca during this week. There are 33 brotherhoods in the city with over 40,000 members – an impressive number for a city with only 55,000 inhabitants.
The Nazarenos (penitents) of each brotherhood wear their distinctive vestments. They typically consist of a tunic, a pointed hat (capirote) and a face mask. The colors of the vestments symbolize different aspects of the Passion of Christ.
Women have been taking part in the hermandades as full members since the 1980s. Today, they make up around a third of members in many brotherhoods – and the trend is rising.
Pasos: Works of art on shoulders
The Pasos – artistically designed platforms with scenes of the Passion of Christ – are the centerpiece of the processions. Members of the brotherhoods carry them on their shoulders through the narrow streets of the city.
Wearing a Paso is considered an honor, but it also comes with costs. Members pay up to 2,000 euros to shoulder this burden. Some pasos weigh up to 2,500 kilograms and require 40 costaleros (porters) to maneuver them through the steep, cobbled streets of the old town. The physical exertion is enormous, especially during processions that last up to six hours.
Between tradition and the present
The Semana Santa in Cuenca combines deeply rooted tradition with the living present. The processions are more than just religious rituals – they reflect the identity and cohesion of the city. As a visitor, you feel welcome in Cuenca even when the small town is full to bursting during Semana Santa. It seems that everyone wants to contribute to the dignified organization of the festival.
Las Turbas: noise and silence
One of Spain’s most unusual traditions takes place on the night of Good Friday. A huge crowd gathers in front of the El Salvador parish church. They make a deafening noise with drums and trumpets. They bang on the church door, behind which the participants in the procession prepare for the Passion of Christ.
The doors open at 5:30 am. With a loud roar, the costaleros of the Hermandad de Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno carry the Passion figure Jesus with the cross out. “Tirale, tirale”, shouts the crowd, while drummers cross their sticks and zinc trumpets create an eerie disharmony. The scene recreates the hostile crowd that mocked Jesus on the way to Calvary.
But when the figure of Virgen de la Soledad appears as the last paso, the mood changes. Drums and trumpets fall silent, the crowd pauses and a poignant silence fills the alleyways. A moment of profound reverence emerges from the chaos of the turbas.
Sound backdrop in the video
The first video shows the head of the procession before it reaches the square in front of the cathedral
When the mourning Virgin Mary enters the Plaza Mayor in front of Cuenca Cathedral, which is packed with more than 5,000 people, the turbas remain silent.
Culinary traditions of Holy Week
Semana Santa in Cuenca is not only a feast for the eyes, but also for the palate. Many dishes during this time follow the fasting rules of the Catholic Church. A classic is the Potaje de Vigilia – a stew made from chickpeas, spinach and cod, which is traditionally served on Good Friday. Sweet specialties such as Torrijas (deep-fried bread soaked in wine or milk with honey and cinnamon) and Flores de Semana Santa (deep-fried dough flowers with honey) are very popular. Bakers all over the country offer torrijas soaked in milk and cooking shows about the best recipes are shown on television.
Practical tips and cultural subtleties
If you want to experience Semana Santa in Cuenca, you should book early, as hotels get booked up quickly. A visit is worthwhile – be it because of the religious significance, the cultural tradition or the unique atmosphere. We recommend the centrally located Hotel Convento del Girald, a former convent from the 17th century. The second floor is still used by the nuns and is closed to hotel guests.
It would be a faux pas to compare the pointed hoods of the procession participants with the Ku Klux Klan. This comparison is historically and culturally incorrect and fails to recognize the religious significance of the capirotes. These pointed hoods, part of a centuries-old Catholic penitential tradition, symbolize humility, repentance and anonymity before God.
It is equally inappropriate to refer to the Good Friday procession as the Procession of the Drunkards (Procesión de los Borrachos). The Las Turbas procession, officially known as the Camino del Calvario, is one of the city’s oldest and most symbolic traditions. It dates back to 1616 and is deeply rooted in Cuenca’s identity.
The research trip was supported by Cuenca Turismo and the Spanish Tourist Board Turespaña.
