The Swedish city of Uppsala, north of Stockholm, is one of the most important in the country. Many centuries before Stockholm was mentioned as a small trading post between the Baltic Sea and Lake Mälaren, Uppsala, 80 kilometers to the north, was the pagan center of the Vikings. It is understandable that the Catholic Church focused on this place for successful Christianization. Uppsala became the first bishop’s see in 1164. The church needed scholars, which led to the founding of Scandinavia’s first university. Uppsala, scene of the Viking Age, center of power of the church and royal house as well as place of science and teaching is an exciting destination in Sweden. You can reach Uppsala from Stockholm in 35 minutes by train. A stay of several days is worthwhile, because if you visit Uppsala, you must not miss Gamla-Uppsala – otherwise you will miss the beginning of everything.
Uppsala – a worthwhile city trip
In Uppsala, the cathedral, university, castle and botanical gardens are all close together. Historical input about Vigborg the Viking, King Gustav Vasa, Anders Celsius or Carl von Linné can be combined with a relaxing break in one of the many cafés by the river Fyrisån. A visit to the Anatomical Theater in the Gustavianum and a walk along the rune stones from Viking times are topped off with a Swedish fika in Café Guntherska. Old Uppsala, once a pagan center, sacrificial site and mysterious necropolis, is only five kilometers away and is easily accessible by bike or bus. Here are the most important sights in Uppsala and Gamla Uppsala.
Gamla Uppsala – cult site of the Vikings
According to legend, people from all over Scandinavia flocked to the temple in Gamla Uppsala every nine years during the Viking Age to make sacrifices to the Norse gods. Nine males of each species were sacrificed, including humans. It is said that they were hung in trees in a grove and their blood was to propitiate the gods. Adam von Bremen reported this to his archbishop around 1070. He wrote that the people in the north had a famous temple called Uppsala, which was decorated entirely with gold. Around 650 AD, there were not only the royal tombs still visible today in the area of old Uppsala, but also halls and a market square. The surrounding area was dotted with small mounds, as the deceased were buried in mounds of earth. In 1164, this legendary Uppsala became Sweden’s first archbishopric in the course of Christianization. Traces of the alleged golden temple can no longer be found today, but the large royal tombs are still visible. The Gamla Uppsala Museum exhibits finds from some of these burial mounds. To the great disappointment of archaeologists, the deceased and their valuable grave goods were cremated before burial. It is assumed that the temple stood on the site where the small stone church stands today. Gamla Uppsala has captivated people for more than 1,500 years. King Gustav Vasa also used the symbolic power of Uppsala on several occasions. In 1531, he proclaimed a bell tax on Parliament Hill, which was just behind the church. When the citizens protested, the king threatened to kill them all, whereupon they begged for mercy and agreed to pay one bell per parish. These and other stories can be read in the small community museum right next to the church. There is a lot to explore in old Uppsala, so much so that 125 years ago the need for a tourist attraction was already apparent.
Odinsborg – a restaurant from 1899
The Odinsborg restaurant in Gamla Uppsala is one of the very first restaurants for outings. It was built in 1899 in the spirit of Swedish national romanticism. The style is comparable to German Art Nouveau and romanticizes the past. In the restaurant rooms there are historical depictions and drinking horns from the early years of tourism in Gamla Uppsala. To this day, Old Uppsala is a culturally significant place for many Swedes. You can still order mead, the honey wine of the Vikings, in Odinsborg. But coffee and a slice of cake are also a good choice.
Uppsala Cathedral
Construction of the cathedral began in 1270. Consecrated in 1435, the Gothic cathedral is the largest church in Northern Europe with its 107 meter long and 27 meter high interior. In the 16th century, King Gustav Vasa forced the reformation of the Swedish church to the Evangelical-Lutheran faith. Until 1719, many rulers were crowned in the cathedral. King Gustav Vasa (1496-1560) and the botanist Carl von Linné are buried here.
Uppsala University
Uppsala University was founded in 1477, making it the oldest university in Scandinavia. It is one of the hundred best educational institutions in the world and has produced 8 Nobel Prize winners. Today, 50,000 students from all over the world study here. Among the university’s most famous scientists are Carl von Linné, Anders Celsius and Olof Rudbeck.
Student life in Uppsala
In Uppsala, 13 student nations represent the interests of students. These nations originated historically from countrymen’s societies. At the beginning of their studies, students choose a nation and pay their fees. Almost all nations were founded in the 17th century and are housed in venerable buildings. However, students are less interested in the history of a nation than its party potential. There are club and cocktail evenings, banquets and cheap lunches almost every week. Alcohol is also cheaper in the Nations, which regularly leads to long queues at the entrances. However, access is only granted to those studying in Uppsala.
Uppsala Botanical Garden
The botanical garden is a varied green area. Among the highlights are the accurate baroque garden at the foot of the castle, the 200-year-old orangery and the tropical greenhouse. Café Victoria serves food made from regional organic ingredients and, of course, pastries and coffee. A picnic on the lawn is also permitted. Around the orangery there are still four old laurel trees in the large tubs that Carl von Linné ordered in Holland in the 18th century. Until the 1980s, the leaves of the laurel were used to weave laurel wreaths for doctoral students. But scientists seem to grow faster than laurel trees. In order to preserve the historical plants, the leaves for the wreaths are now sourced in Italy.
Linnaeus Garden
The Linneaus Garden is located in the middle of Uppsala. The world-famous botanist Carl von Linné lived with his family from 1743 to 1778 in the professor’s house, which is now a museum. The house showcases his scientific achievements through exhibitions in the library, the study and the natural history cabinet. The 18th century building is furnished with original objects such as clothes, textiles, crockery and furniture belonging to the Linné family. This botanical garden was first laid out in 1655 and is the oldest in Sweden. In 1741, Carl von Linné became a professor at Uppsala University and thus responsible for the garden. Linné taught his students and conducted research here. The Linné actor Hans Odöö regularly slips into the role of Carl von Linné and explains the botanist’s studies in English during his guided tours. Carl von Linné introduced the binary nomenclature used today, according to which all organisms are named in a uniform system with a double designation.
Fika at Guntherska or Café Linné
Cardamom knots are a popular yeast pastry alongside kanellbullar. Together with a cup of coffee, they become fika, a central part of Swedish culture. Swedes are among the biggest coffee consumers in the world. Fika means interrupting an activity to drink coffee with family, friends or colleagues. A fika can last between 15 and 45 minutes. Coffee is often accompanied by something sweet. When Swedes invite guests to a fika at home, they traditionally offer them seven different sweets. Less is considered stingy, more too ostentatious. This custom probably explains the huge range of cakes, canapés and cookies on offer in cafés and bakeries.
Cycling and hiking in Uppsala
Uppsala has been voted Sweden’s most bicycle-friendly city several times. There are numerous well-developed cycle paths, hiring bikes is easy and many routes are well signposted. You can reach Old Uppsala, five kilometers away, on foot or by bike on the Linnéstig. Tip: take the bus to Gamla-Uppsala and after visiting the Viking cult site, walk back to Uppsala with the spires of the cathedral firmly in view.
If you’re wondering why Uppsala and Gamla Uppsala even exist, here’s an explanation: Gamla Uppsala had to give up its name to what is now Uppsala. Until the 13th century, today’s Uppsala was called Östra Aros. However, when the large cathedral was to be built in Östra Aros, the pope ordered the important name Uppsala to move with the bishop’s seat and the former Uppsala became Gamla Uppsala.
Even underground, Stockholm is worth a visit. The Stockholm Metro is considered the longest art exhibition in the world. The Swedish city of Uppsala, 80 kilometres north of Stockholm, is one of the most important in the country. Many centuries before Stockholm was mentioned as a small trading post, Uppsala was the pagan centre of the Vikings. We report on cult and culture in Gamla-Uppsala and on the entertaining messages of the Swedish rune stones and reveal Stockholm’s secret eye-catchers.
The research was supported by Destination Uppsala
