In San Marino, you can hardly get lost on the hiking trails. Not because there are few, but because the three peaks with their imposing fortified towers always show the way. Founded in 301 AD by St. Marinus, San Marino is considered the oldest republic in the world. The dwarf state, an enclave in Italy, covers 61 km² and has around 33,000 inhabitants. The capital, also called San Marino, is enthroned on the 739-metre-high Monte Titano, whose three medieval towers are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Politically noteworthy: two Capitani Reggenti share the government every year. Although San Marino is not part of the EU, it uses the euro and lives from tourism and an outlet center for luxury brands. Its hilltop location, Mediterranean climate and car-free old town make the state a historical treasure. San Marino’s newer attractions include well-developed hiking trails.
On the Sentiero della Rupe
The “Sentiero della Rupe” is one of the most popular hiking trails in San Marino. The circular path leads past the three towers of the Republic and then turns into a cliff path that runs along the steep, rocky flank of Monte Titano. If you start in the old town, you begin at the first tower, the Rocca Guaita.
From there, the route leads over stone steps to Via Pietro Rossi, where the signposted entrance to the Sentiero della Rupe is located. The circular route leads over steep passages and steps. Alternatively, you can also start in the lower-lying Borgo Maggiore. There are always views of the three peaks of San Marino or the wide plain.
The route is considered moderately difficult. Sturdy footwear is essential, as the rocky sections are often slippery. San Marino is not nicknamed the “castle in the clouds” for nothing: Monte Titano is often the only elevation rising out of the plain and is shrouded in clouds, rain or fog. Some steep sections are secured with ropes or steps. The walking time for the circular route with the number 1 is around 2.5 hours. The difference in altitude is 263 meters.
The hike with our guide Sara Forcellini is a double pleasure. The San Marino native is a historian and hiking guide – a fabulous combination. On the Sentiero della Rupe, she not only tells us about the vegetation and rock strata of Monte Titano, but also about the history of the oldest republic in the world. We hear about myths, miracles, saints, happy turns of events and clever politicians who have ensured the independence of the dwarf state for over 1700 years.
San Marino and the will to independence
The best-known legend revolves around the founding of San Marino. According to tradition, the Dalmatian stonemason Marinus fled to Monte Titano in 301 AD to escape the persecution of Christians. There he founded a Christian community, which is considered to be the origin of today’s Republic. Before his death in 366, Marinus is said to have spoken the famous words: “Relinquo vos liberos ab utroque homine” (I leave you free from both men). By these he meant the Pope and the representative of secular power. Marinus imbued the small community on Monte Titano with an unshakeable will to independence, which even rejected Napoleon’s generous gifts of land.
St. Marinus was never canonized by the Catholic Church. At some point, the inhabitants of San Marino began to venerate him as a saint and enshrined this in the name of their republic. In other words: San Marino is the only republic founded by a saint.
Until the 1920s, Monte Titano was almost completely bare. The poor population had felled almost all the trees over the centuries. Hiking guide Sara Forcellini stands on a rocky outcrop and points to the pine trees that were planted by a large reforestation project, which gave work to many impoverished inhabitants at the time.
Outdoor instead of outlet
During the coronavirus pandemic, new hiking trails were created around Monte Titano. During this time, outdoor activities were in demand, but shopping was canceled. Today there are eight main hiking trails. The 42-kilometre Camino del Titano long-distance hiking trail connects all of these routes. There is also the pilgrimage route that the founder of the Republic, Marinus, once took from Croatia across the Adriatic Sea and from Rimini through the plain to Monte Titano. Sara Forcellini assures us that it is impossible to get lost on these paths, as the three towers of San Marino with their feathers always show the way. Those who want to avoid the steep climb from Borgo Maggiore can take the cable car and reach their destination in just three minutes. The old Costa dell’Arnella road used to be the only access to the town for people and pack animals. It is so steep that farmers used to transfer their goods from oxen to donkeys before making the climb. Route descriptions of the hiking trails around San Marino.
The dual leadership of San Marino is about the Capitani Regenti, one of the oldest democratic offices in the world. More recent attractions in San Marino include well-developed hiking trails. The Sentiero della Rupe circular trail leads past the three towers of the Republic and then turns into a cliff path that runs along the steep, rocky flank of Monte Titano. Whether you simply stroll through the narrow streets of the old town and enjoy the view again and again or take an extended hike, for example to Eduardo Kobra’s remote mural “The History of San Marino”: In the evening, restaurants such as Cesare, La Terrazza or Il Ghetto da Ottavio reward you with culinary specialties. A snack for in between is already set with piadina!
The research was supported by Visit San Marino
