When the wind blows from the sea, Jakob Stokkebye is happy about the salty air that reaches his vines. Christoph Kühne-Hellmessen praises the many hours of sunshine on Usedom, and Johan Öberg raves about the mild winters for Sweden on the Bjäre Peninsula on the Kattegat. Just a few decades ago, hardly anyone would have believed that promising wine regions could emerge north of the 51st parallel. However, global warming not only brings risks, but sometimes also opportunities. While rising temperatures are making the cultivation of many grape varieties more difficult in traditional wine-growing countries such as France and Italy, new opportunities are opening up in Denmark, Sweden and Germany.

The northern lights among the winemakers
Modern, cold-resistant grape varieties such as Solaris and Rondo as well as innovative cultivation methods are driving the success of viticulture in the north. Experts agree that climate change with rising temperatures will reinforce this trend in the long term. Investors are also looking north and showing interest in the region’s fresh, acidic wines. Winemakers use cooling sea breezes and long periods of daylight to create high-quality wines. They rely on organic practices and look for a distinctive terroir that emphasizes the northern origin of the wines.
We traveled to three wineries that embody the pioneering spirit of Nordic viticulture. On the German Baltic island of Usedom, in the Swedish region of Skåne and on the Danish island of Funen, we met winemakers who produce high-quality wines with expertise, a spirit of innovation and commitment.

Wine growing on the Baltic island of Usedom
In the small village of Welzin, on a peninsula between Lake Usedom and the Szczecin Lagoon, lies the estate of Christoph Kühne-Hellmessen. On Usedom, known for its imperial spas, wide sandy beaches and healthy sea air, the trained farmer planted the island’s first wine. Kühne-Hellmessen comes from Bavaria. He moved to the Baltic Sea 30 years ago with his wife and children and swapped the mountains for the sea. Winegrowing is not new territory for him. On the contrary: he ran a vineyard near Mount Etna in Sicily for several years. He flew from the Baltic Sea to the Mediterranean every five weeks. But during the coronavirus pandemic, winegrowing from afar became difficult. Kühne-Hellmessen then applied to grow grapes on one hectare of land on Usedom. He planted the first vines in 2021. By 2024, the family project had already produced its first cuvée under the name “Kühn + Hell”.

The bold seven of Welzin
The Welzin winery focuses on natural cultivation. The climatic conditions on Usedom – mild winters, maritime summers and a steady breeze – create a good basis for the cultivation of fungus-resistant (PIWI) vines. The first vintage of the original Usedom wine was produced in a mixed set. “In 2021, we planted seven grape varieties with a strong character in the same field. The harvested grapes from Sauvignac, Muscaris, Solaris, Rinot, Ravel blanc, Soreli and Fleurtai are processed into a single wine,” explains Christoph Kühne-Hellmessen.

The result is a natural wine that reflects the terroir and the proximity to the sea. The winemaker emphasizes: “Our soils offer diversity: terminal moraine and loam, partly peaty, partly sandy. ” Christoph Kühne-Hellmessen stands in the vineyard and raves about the many hours of sunshine on Usedom, the sunniest region in Germany with 1900 hours. These conditions, combined with his 40 years of experience in organic farming, led him to the biodynamic cultivation method and, with the Gemischter Satz, to an original form of viticulture. Winery Welzin on Usedom
Vine growing in Sweden: Thora Vingård
On the Swedish peninsula of Bjäre in Skåne, Johan Öberg runs the Thora Vingård winery. Like Christoph Kühnen-Helmessen, it is a family project. In 2014, Heather and Johan and their four sons were looking for a place that would unite family and friends. They had previously lived in the USA for many years. They decided on an abandoned farm near the vacation resort of Båstad. A neighbor was already experimenting with wine growing there. The purchase of the farm required the cultivation of the land, and so the Öbergs also ventured into the experiment with Cool Climate wine.

The first winegrowers in southern Sweden started growing Solaris at the turn of the millennium. With its long summer days and cool nights, the region offers ideal conditions for fungus-resistant grape varieties such as Solaris and Regent. At Thora Vingård, however, they started with Pinot Noir. Johan Öberg explains that the climate on the Kattegat allows the grapes to ripen more slowly, which improves the aromas.
Cool climate wines
An interesting fact: between 950 and 1250 AD, Europe experienced an unusually mild warm period. The Vikings colonized Greenland, and wine of unknown quality grew in Scotland. Around 1000 years later, the first winegrowers in southern Sweden began to cultivate white wine from the robust Solaris grape variety. Most Swedish vineyards cover one to two hectares. The grapes ripen in around 100 days, blossom in April and are harvested from the end of September to the beginning of October. Solaris is the most commonly cultivated grape variety in Sweden. However, winegrowing families such as the Öbergs also rely on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The wine benefits from plenty of sunshine here, while the proximity to the sea protects the vines from late frosts in spring.

The biggest challenge for winegrowers is distribution. In Sweden, the state-owned company Systembolaget holds the monopoly on the retail of alcoholic beverages in order to better regulate alcohol consumption. Winegrowers therefore only have three distribution channels open to them: licensed state stores, restaurants and the consumption, but not yet the sale, on their own vineyards. At Thora Vingård, wine tastings are offered in the wine boutique. In 2024, the Flora restaurant opened with a large stainless steel show kitchen, a window front with a view of the vineyards and a window to the ultra-modern winery, which contains the first steel tanks and still has plenty of room for expansion. Thora Vingård Peninsula Bjärne
Wine growing in Denmark
The Stokkebye winery is located on the Danish island of Funen. Jakob and Helle Stokkebye, together with a handful of other winegrowers, are true pioneers. Wine has been grown in Denmark for around 20 years. Jakob Stokkebye began planting his first vines in 2009. He has a background in gastronomy, is a highly trained butler and sommelier and also runs a caviar business on the side.

Today, Stokkebye wines are among the best in Denmark. The white wine Livia has already won several awards. Three hectares of Pinto Noir have been added in recent years. The harvest on Funen usually begins in mid-October. The sea is only one kilometer away. 200 years ago, it was exactly where the vines are today, explains Jakob Stokkebye. The soil is calcareous and full of minerals. Jakob Stokkebye sought advice from the Rheingau when setting up his vineyard. For example, the vines were planted 1.20 meters apart, as the plants need more air and therefore more distance from each other due to the higher number of rainy days. The warm summer days and cool nights on Funen promote the development of complex aromas. The wines from Gut Stokkebye go to over twenty Michelin star restaurants. The production of around 20,000 bottles per year is almost entirely purchased by restaurants in Denmark.

The future of cool-climate wines
The stories of these three winemakers show how viticulture in Northern Europe is breaking new ground. With knowledge and passion, they produce wines that reflect their origins and shape a new wine culture in northern regions. Does the future of European wine lie in the north? The high sugar content of southern European wines is already attracting the attention of investors to the north. Skilled workers are also showing flexibility. Johan Öberg reports that they have advertised a position for a pair of oenologists to work at Thora Vingård. It is too dark and lonely here in winter – company is needed. The response surprised the Öbergs: 60 couples wanted to try their luck as winemakers in the north. The choice fell on a young, well-trained oenologist couple from France. It remains exciting to see how these regions will develop – hopefully without the impetus of climate change, which is damaging most regions of the world.
Road trip to the northern lights of winegrowing
Here’s a tip on how to combine the northern wine-growing regions into a delightful road trip without duplicating routes. Our route started in the middle of Germany, continued north via Kappeln on the Schlei in Schleswig-Holstein to the Danish peninsula of Funen. At Copenhagen, we crossed the Öresund Bridge into Sweden. From Landskrona, we made several excursions in the province of Skåne, for example to Båstad, the Bjärne peninsula, the Öresund island of Ven and the Kullaberg nature reserve. After a week in Skåne, we crossed over to Usedom from the Trelleborg ferry port. There is currently a ferry connection to Swinemünde in Poland.
The research was supported by Visit Landskrona and Usedom Tourism